Lagrezette Blog

The life of a grapevine and of a grape, in 4 acts. Naissance et renouveau (4)

When March dawns, winter is not yet over, but the grapevines emerge from their slumber.

We watch over their environment by destroying the weeds around them. The grapevines enter their « vegetative cycle », as the specialists say. The sap rises in the plant. Then comes the budbreak phase, when the first buds open. They produce little leaves, tender and green. 45 days later, that is, around May, the vines will bloom.

At that time, late frosts are especially to be feared, but also withering (sometimes defined as a miscarriage of the flowers), resulting in a reduction of the number of berries and therefore of the final production.

We all know that Malbec vines are very sensitive to this danger. So we watch out for it each day, and each year the springtime proves crucial. Even before the first grapes appear on the vine, all the team is mobilised to observe each row, each vine, and to intervene whenever possible… which is unfortunately not the case with withering.

The life of a grapevine and of a grape, in 4 acts. Pruning and rest (3)

... Further to previous notes...

The winter months will, as we readily guess, be months of rest. After the harvest comes the time of hibernation.
December, January and February will be mainly devoted to caring for the grapevines. This means first of all pruning them, most of which is done by hand. It is a job involving very little mechanization, which calls for attention, precision and method. The purpose of pruning, as the gerbaud.com website tells us, is to limit growth (and therefore bulk) and reduce the aging of the stock while triggering the development of a certain number of fruit-bearing branches.
Pruning regulates the next year’s production. It fosters the quality of the grapes to come. Sugar will be concentrated in a smaller number of clusters, via the reduction of the number of buds left on each stock.
Care is taken to avoid any work on the grapevines in freezing weather.
Thus we understand that the year to come is already contained as a promise in this humble and necessary work. The very fine book by Jens Priewe, L’univers du vin, gives various examples of grapevine pruning (goblet pruning, Guyot pruning, cord pruning) which the more curious wine lowers will find fascinating.
And as early as February the first buds will appear…
To be continued …

The life of a grapevine and of a grape, in 4 acts. Maturing, decisions, the vintage (2)

(further to our previous note)

Depending on the region, the climate, the type of vine and the expected results, the vintage will take place between September and December.

The maturing of the grapes is marked by ripening, which is the color taken on by the grapes best exposed to the sun. Their hue becomes yellow in varieties yielding white wines, blue or violet in reds, as a result of the accumulation of sugar in the grapes. On one and the same soil, the calendar may differ greatly. In some years we began the harvest by hand at Lagrézette when the sound of vintaging machine was no more to be heard anywhere...

Our objective – which is also a requirement we have set ourselves – consists in harvesting when the grapes are fully mature, while avoiding over-maturity. But it may of course be dangerous to wait « too long ». If rain is a party to the vintage, or if one waits too long, a year of work can be jeopardized. At this period, which is among the moments of truth, technology yields to the law of nature. The vintage will take place on its terms, and sometimes even at night, when the days are too hot. Once the harvest is over, work continues in the cellar, and once more the earth enters its resting phase. The cycle of time, celebrated by all traditions, whether pagan or religious, imposes itself on us. The days wane. Temperatures grow cooler, the vines gradually enter their phase of slumber. Working the soil and the fruits of the earth inevitably leads us to a better grasp of the myth of Everlasting Return…

(to be continued)

Our 2007 red wines: outlook on a good year

Throughout this year, the press has duly reported the worries of the wine growers, faced with the unusually fickle weather. Global warming and unpredictable climate have been topics on everyone's lips. But finally, this summer finished on a positive note.

September: a comprehensive inspection tour of the Lagrézette vineyard allowed us to develop an initial understanding of its condition and to predict the qualitative prospects for the October harvest. The final tasting report states: "The grape skins are thick, allowing us to predict a wine with a good constitution. We have not noticed any aggressiveness. Absence of pronounced astringency and of vegetal notes. At this stage, we can already anticipate wines with an attractive color and heightened aromatic qualities. "

At the beginning of October, we began the harvest – by hand, of course – of the Malbec and Merlot, two varieties that we will vinify separately. Their blending will not take place until early 2009, after the ageing in oak barrels has done its work. One third of the wine will be aged in new barrels, which are reserved in priority for the Dame Honneur and Pigeonnier cuvees. The profile of these forthcoming wines is already predictable. The 2007 red wines will be well-rounded; soft yet powerful, with a good constitution. They will be expressive and fruity, with notes of ripe fruit and harmonious tannins. They promise a combination of suppleness, charm and elegance, as well as fullness.

Viognier, Chardonnay: What are the differences?

The Larousse Dictionary of Wines confirms the Viognier grape variety's flourishing reputation.

Formerly concentrated in the region around Condrieu, (in the Rhone valley) it is now being grown in several areas. It produces wines with a powerful bouquet. Generally rich, with a long finish, they are noted for their lovely balance. Wines with a fine density, but still lively, they are contemporary, enjoyable to drink, and always charming. The grapes we harvested in September foretell a very good 2007 vintage at Domaine de Lagrézette. We think that the promise of this increasingly popular variety will be fulfilled.

This will also be a good year for our Chardonnay grapes. Given the magnificent appearance of the grapes during the harvest, we might even say an excellent year. Chardonnay grapes generally yield a powerful, varied bouquet, whose aromas may include citrus fruit, hazelnut, fresh butter, tropical fruit… Vinified in oak barrels, of which one third are renewed each year, this vintage will also be bottled in the springtime. On our website, as well as in this blog, we look forward to making our comments after the first tasting this spring. But first, we have to wait patiently all winter. Above all, the pleasures of wine require patience, don't they?

Our 2007 white wines: a vintage rich with promise…

At Domaine de Lagrézette, the Malbec grape is the star of the show.

But a few years ago, we also began growing some fine varieties of white grapes. We selected two varieties to work with.

One is the famous Chardonnay, probably the most well known white grape worldwide. In particular, it is used to produce all the finest white Burgundies. Able to adapt to a wide range of climates, the Chardonnay can cope with the cold winters of the Champagne region as well as the scorching California sun. The second variety of white grape at Lagrézette is the Viognier.

Twenty years ago, it was only found in the Rhone valley. Today, it is being adopted by wine growers in Languedoc-Roussillon, and we have planted it in our Rocamadour vineyard. This year, we began harvesting the white varieties on September 17, three weeks earlier than the reds. The weather was dry, the conditions superb. The grapes were magnificent, foretelling a fine vintage. The wines are currently ageing in the oak barrels where they were vinified. They will remain there all winter. Between Easter and Pentecost, we will choose the ideal moment for bottling.

We currently have extremely high expectations for these two 2007 cuvees, which will both be sold under the name Blanche de Grézette. Tomorrow, we will go into more depth on the subtle points that distinguish these two grape varieties.

Prudence and vigilance, watch-words for the summer (1)

Around Cahors, as in so many other parts of France, the weather this year has been unsettled.

It was very hot in April. May was much cooler. In June, we had a succession of heat waves and heavy rains. This doesn’t indicate anything in particular about the final quality of our grapes. Yet in this period which leads from spring into summer, the number 1 issue at Château Lagrézette is watching out, and very carefully, for the natural threats lurking around the root stock, leaves and young grapes.

                                                         

What haunts us are diseases known as cryptogamic. Microscopic fungi attack the plants. Where grapevines are concerned, the two most known are botrytis and mildew. Botrytis can harm the vineyard. And yet sometimes it is welcomed: since it gives the fine sweet wines, such as the great Sauternes, their incomparable character. In such cases, the fungus takes the lovely name of "noble rot."

But such is not our concern.

Mildew, on the other hand is our enemy.

This fungus attacks the leaves and the grapes which have already set on. If it manages to spread, an entire year’s worth of work can be jeopardized ... and with it, the entire vintage. So our vigilance is constant: inspecting the plants daily.

Tomorrow, we will discuss another problem all wine growers are familiar with: the phenomenon known as coulures...